Mahinga - working

Mahinga - working, as in "mahinga kai" - cultivation or food gathering

This week's post is a special one, because Ellen is back from Japan, and there are only three months or thereabouts until the wedding. I have just got back myself from an awe-inspiring trip to Fiordland, or arawhenua - the shadow land. Readers from New Zealand will be expecting tales of strong south-westerly gales, as the southern tips of New Zealand have been experiencing 170km/h winds over the last few days. However, we were incredibly lucky with the weather on our trip, and only on our return did we experience those buffeting winds. We were treated to almost perfect weather for our two days in Milford Sound.

On day one we left at 5am to drive to Te Anau. We travelled via Gore and Clifden in Southland. Clifden has its very own suspension bridge - which is a clear replica of the famous Clifton Suspension Bridge in Bristol - which was my sole reason for going there. However I was surprised to see that there is no acknowledgment of the bridge's pedigree in the local signage. I cannot fathom how the New Zealand Historic Places Trust has failed to recognise the significance of a miniature replica of IKB's famous suspension bridge design in this remote part of the South Island, but my contact at the Trust assures me that this embarrassing oversight will be raised at the highest level forthwith. It is after all, not what you know but who you know that counts!

On day two we got up to watch England lose to South Africa in the RWC final because the fourth official couldn't recognise a clear try when he saw one.

Today was the day we were going to Milford Sound! The trip had been built-up in my mind and we were apprehensive as we boarded the coach, Mike and I, as to what was in store for us. We had been talking about, and planning the trip, for days, and so when we finally set-off from Te Anau we were extremely excited and ready for the trip of a lifetime.

The road to Milford winds through Fiordland National Park, up the Eglinton River through beech forest and over The Divide which is the lowest pass through the Southern Alps. From here it winds up the Hollyford Valley through incredible snow fields and into the Homer Tunnel. The Homer Tunnel was built during the Great Depression by men paid two cents an hour (current NZD rate) in some of the harshest conditions possible. The area is prone to avalanche and is snowed-in four to five months of the year. It is three or four hours drive by coach from the nearest town, and that's travelling at today's speeds. In 1910 this would have been literally, the middle of nowhere, and terribly hard hard work.

On the other side of the tunnel is the Cleddau valley (pronounced Clethay - as in Welsh) which winds down towards Milford itself. This is stunning countryside. The average rainfall is a massive 6m a year. The landscape is carved by glacier from the last ice-age and the flora is quintessential New Zealand; tree ferns, beech forest, flaxes and mosses. The only terrestrial wildlife we saw was the native parrot, the Kea:



and now it is bedtime so the story will continue tomorrow . .